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My Christmas pilgrimage to Mark Rothko’s Latvia

I took the scenic route to Daugavpils, birthplace of the abstract artist – a world of breathtaking colour, kindness and cold It’s a funny time of year to be visiting Latvia’s second city, Daugavpils, in the far south-east of the country. It’s midwinter and an icy blast has swept across northern Europe, bringing with it…

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